Induction Brewing

I wanted to share how I brew on my system.  If you have never seen Brew Your Own magazine’s Brutus 10, I borrow many ideas from this system. Also once again I have my crude drawings.


First I have to plug in all of the induction cookers.  Make sure to have each induction cooker on its own circuit.  Each induction cooker uses 1800 watts.

I put my mash water in the middle, and my sparge water on the end.

Induction brewing 1


When the mash water is up to the temperature you are going for, transfer the water from the mash water to the mash tun.  Now dough in your grains.  Make sure to stir the grains well so there all of the grain gets wet and there is no hot or cold spots.

Also while mashing make sure to stir the grains about every 15 to 20 minutes to make sure there are no hot or cold spots.  A nice thing with my setup is the mash tun is a kettle with an all metal false bottom.  I like to make sure the Induction cooker is on to keep the water hot.  I only turn this induction cooker on 300 watt or 500 watt.


After the mash is done, I bring the temperature up to around 160 and circulate the water over the grains.

Induction brewing 3


After about 20 minutes of circulating I then take the hose from pump 1 and put the hose where the mash water is, now my boil kettle.

I start the sparge water to the mash tun and have the mash tun drain into the now boil kettle.  Make sure not to mash to fast or you will miss out on total grain extraction.

Induction brewing 4


After I’m done sparging I have all of the wort in the boil kettle.  I take a gravity read and I use the pumps one last time to evenly divide the wort between the boil kettle and what was the sparge water.  I use 2 induction cookers so I can get a boil faster with around 3 gallons in each kettle.  If one induction cooker takes a long time to boil 5 to 7 gallons my thought is divide the amount and the wort will boil in half the time.

For chilling see Pump Chilling on my site.

For this system to work you need 2 pumps.  I use Chugger pumps





Yeast Experiment

I find it interesting that I brewed the same blonde ale, but the only difference is the carboy of the left has Safale US-05 yeast and the carboy on the right has nottingham yeast.  The carboy with Nottingham is already much lighter in color and has a lot more foam on top.  The Carboy with US-05 yeast is producing more bubbles per minute.  I plan on tasting both when they are done fermenting, but in the end they will end up in the same corny keg.

I’ll keep everyone posted in a few weeks.



Pump Chilling

One of the greatest things about my new setup is chilling.  Previously brewing experience is chilling is kind of a pain.  You would have to slowly let the wort gravity fed through the chiller.  The other method is to insert coils in the hot wort.


What I did is copy what Brutus 10 does and run the wort with the tap wide open on the hot side and running ice cold water with 22 pounds of ice on the cold side.

Please excuse my crude image, but it gives you the basic idea.  I ran the beer and water with spigot wide open chugger pumps fully on.

Pump chilling


I was able to get wort from boiling to 75 degrees Fahrenheit in around 20 minutes.  I washed 2 three gallon carboys and drank a beer.  At 75 degrees Fahrenheit I siphoned the wort into the carboys and pitched the yeast.


One really cool thing about Chugger pumps is how you can change what direction the pump head flows.  On my pump 1 the flow is left to right, how it comes out of the box.



I want pump 2 going right to left.  I took off 4 screws turned the pump head how I want it and how I have pump 2 flowing left to right.



I do worry about running the wort a high speed cooling if it will change the beer because of to much splashing.  I did put the hose connected to the pump all the way into the wort.  There was no splashing, but I guess we will have to wait and see how the long term taste of the beer.  I’ll make sure to post how the beer turns out in the next few weeks.